What Is a Breeder?
10 Rules of Ethical Breeding
A Checklist to Breeding Your Bulldog
Breeding Your Female Bulldog
Know the Facts BEFORE Breeding Your Bulldog!
Breeding and Whelping Bulldogs: The Basics
Dealing with a Reputable Breeder
Recognizing Unethical Breeders
What Do Breeders Want to Know?

What Is a Breeder?

How do you define a Breeder? I will use the extremes for comparison: a ‘Breeder’ is a person for whom it is more important to perform a specific breeding of one special ‘right’ dog to a specific bitch, rather than a person who will breed any male of the same breed to their bitch in order to produce puppies. A Breeder doesn’t breed at a specific time of year for better puppy sales. A Breeder breeds for him or herself, because they are breeding to an ideal and not the "market". A Breeder may hold onto the puppies for longer than eight weeks so they are certain they have made the right ‘pick’ of which puppy to keep or to sell as a show dog, and by definition as a breeding animal.

A Breeder goes through absolutely hellacious torment every time a puppy is shipped by air. A Breeder makes you justify just why you think you deserve a puppy. On the other hand, a non-breeder, in the case of the worst puppy mills, breeds any dog which looks like it may belong to a certain breed to whatever specimen of the same breed they can pick up. A non- breeder doesn’t choose the ‘best’ male for a given female. A non-breeder ‘lets nature take its course’ rather than doing everything within their power to ensure that the mother and the father, and eventually the puppies, are healthy. This is to ensure that the breeding will be successful so that it won’t seriously affect the health of the mother and so that the puppies will be robust and healthy. A Breeder will perform all necessary tests and use their best ability to ensure that the mother and father of a litter are genetically healthy and free of inheritable diseases.

A Breeder will only register puppies with the correct pedigree. A puppy mill will use any set of ‘papers’ they can get their hands on, and which may not actually be the true pedigrees of the sire and dam. A Breeder will stay awake and with the litter for as many 24-hour days as are necessary to ensure that no puppy is lost to ‘fading puppy syndrome’, or is squashed or misplaced by the new mother. A non-breeder will ‘let nature take its course’ - again.

A Breeder will handle every puppy several times every day, and help supplement the puppy’s feeding if necessary to save excessive drain on the dam. A Breeder will chart daily weights on the puppies, and identify each puppy in some way, so that they can keep track of each puppy’s rate of gain. By doing this the Breeder will know if a puppy is falling behind the others and can be supplemented.

A Breeder will give the expectant mother Breyers Ice Cream, or pickles and peanut butter, if they are requested, and will sleep with her on their pillow, to reassure her she is special. A Breeder will stay home from work for as many days as necessary in order to whelp the litter, help the bitch, and get the puppies off to a good start. A Breeder will supply the mother with a whelping box which keeps the mother and the puppies comfortable, and gives them a feeling of protection and safety. If the bitch chooses, however, she is allowed to begin the whelping process on the Breeder’s own bed, and to move to the whelping box once anxiety cools and the bitch is ready to keep at her job in another location. A puppy mill simply ‘harvests’ the puppies from wire bottomed cages like rabbit hutches when they appear to be about the age of consent for the airlines.

A Breeder will skillfully interview all applicants for adoption and will provide the new puppy owners with a healthy, well adjusted, well vaccinated and wormed puppy. I know I could go on about this for a couple more pages, but the impression I want to give is that breeding a litter and whelping and raising and placing puppies entails tremendous sustained effort, education, money and a good knowledge of applied genetics. It is anything but a casual undertaking. A breeding undertaken without this kind of effort may produce healthy, sound puppies, or it may not. One has no way of predicting, since the deck wasn’t ‘loaded’’ as good Breeders try to arrange it.

After selling the puppy, a good Breeder will follow up with all needed assistance to the new owner. A Breeder will be prepared to take a puppy or adult dog back into their own home if needed - for whatever reason. This means that a good Breeder must be able to provide for an extra dog or two at a moments notice, and inconvenience isn’t an admissible excuse. A good Breeder considers him or herself the "parent" of a puppy from birth to grave. The responsibility for bringing new puppies into the world includes making certain, to the extent possible, that these puppies will go on to have happy lives, and never become homeless. All contracts for puppy sales must include that any transfer should occur through the breeder, or be approved by the breeder.

The bumper sticker proclaims that "A Puppy is for Life", and that’s true, for both the buyer and the breeder. While ‘back yard breeders’ may not be guilty of the sins of puppy mills, neither are they, by definition, cognizant of the procedures and efforts necessary to earn the title ‘Breeder’.

If you need assistance locating a bulldog breeder in the Colorado area, the Bulldog Club of Denver would be glad to help you through the process – Please use the breeder referral section of this website.

A Checklist to Breeding Your Bulldog
These are the points that you should be able to check off with a tick. This is a quick guide for what you should look for before you breed, and is not all inclusive. Further input is welcome:

Is your bitch:
1. show quality
2. a champion
3. have both parents and grand parents that are champions
4. free from known hereditary disease
5. mature enough to breed

Is your dog:
1. show quality
2. a champion
3. have both parents and grand parents that are champions
4. free from hereditary disease
5. mature enough to breed

And you need to meet ALL of the following criteria:
1. you are have homes already for all pups - before the mating
2. you have found a dog that meets all the points in the section above relating to the requirements of the bitch
3. you are prepared to offer a lifetime guarantee (or at least two years) for the health of the pups
4. if, during the lifetime of the pups, any need to be returned for whatever reason, you take that pup (now adult dog) back and find a home for him/her.
5. all non-show quality pups are sold with a spay/neuter agreement
6. all prospective buyers have been fully screened by you
7. you are going to offer support and advice to your puppy buyers for the life of the pup
8. you have the money to cover a stud fee, c-section and complications, vaccinations, and still get no income from the sale of any pups.
9. have you consented with the breeder of your bitch/dog and sought their advice?
Now that's just a starting point. If you can't or won't meet these criteria, perhaps breeding at this time is not the best thing for you or your dog.

Breeding Your Female Bulldog

Bulldogs are always C-Section dogs so be prepared to spend BIG $$$ on whelping a litter.

The following are just some things you may want to keep in mind.

1. Is the animal free of inherited defects? No dog or bitch should be bred before the age of two years. Early detection of potential genetic problems is often impossible. Conditions such as Hip Dysplasia, entropian and thyroid problems, typically do not appear early in the animal's lifespan. They can also go unnoticed by the owner. Some will eventually be detected through a special examination done by a vet. If you breed early and neglect to have your animal tested, a more severe form of some of these diseases can appear in puppies. This causes heartache for both you and the new owners of your puppies. Two deadly diseases that are associated with breeding dogs are pyrometria and brucellosis. A brucellosis test should be run before breeding your dogs. This is a sexually transmitted infectious disease that can deform puppies, abort puppies, and sterilize males. Brucellosis is incurable and dogs with this disease should be altered. Pyrometria affects females. This disease causes an infection in the uterus that can go undetected until too late. It is commonly seen after a bitch has puppies, but can appear at anytime in an unspayed bitch.

2. Why do you want to breed? The novelty of having a cute litter of puppies can wear off very quickly when the reality of extra work begins to intrude. Breeding is not a financially profitable venture. Breeding, whelping, raising and selling a litter is a serious commitment that requires a great deal of time, work and worry and MONEY. Being a breeder can mean making life and death decisions for and about the animals you love (this means your female could die).

3. Are you ready for the change in lifestyle? There will be much more of your time involved with animal care and as a consequence less time for other people. You can also count on extra trips to the vet for pre and post-natal care. There will be frequent trips outside for your bitch (her bladder will hold less because of puppy pressure) and extra feeding. Dogs generally whelp puppies in the middle of the night. It is NOT uncommon for Bulldogs to need C-Sections and a trip to the emergency vet can prove very costly( around $600+). After the puppies' birth more of your time will be needed in monitoring their health and the health of the mother. Most Bulldog bitches are NOT good moms and this means bottle feeding 1-12 pups every 2 hours around the clock! Eclampsia is the dreaded fear of all breeders and a bitch can develop this overnight. If, as the breeder, you are unaware of the signs, death will inevitably result. Be prepared for your bitch to be sick after whelping and she won't be particular about where she chooses to vomit. An expensive new couch may well be the chosen spot! The first two weeks after birth involve extra precautions in the monitoring of both mother and pups. You may need to interrupt your own sleep many times during the night in order to make sure all is well. Once the litter is up and running a lot of your time will be spent cleaning the house (after they redecorate), cleaning their whelping box, socializing them and experiencing the joy of listening to them whine at 2 a.m. for attention. As puppies enter the weaning stage you are needed more than ever! Pups need to be fed a special blend of dog food 4 times daily. Pups being weaned make huge messes and more time than ever will be needed in order to keep them clean. You'll need an hour from start to finish for each feeding alone, as you won't believe the chaos!

4. What about facilities? Where will you whelp your puppies? Bulldogs are not a breed that can be whelped in the garage or outside. Your house will become a nursery for at least 8 weeks and the noise and odor level will persist during this time. Some bitches are not good mothers and will abandon their pups. Your time will then be needed in the hand-feeding of these pups. Occasionally there is a bitch who needs exceptionally careful monitoring as some have been known to kill puppies or lay on them accidentally and crush them. Post-whelping discharge on the mother can stain any kind of carpet. Furthermore, puppies need lots of contact with people. Someone needs to be home full-time during the 8 weeks of their infancy. Failure to do this can result in temperament problems and hard-to-place puppies.

5. Can you afford it? At least $2,000.00 is necessary to cover the basic costs of having a litter. Stud fees, veterinary care (which includes shots, litter care, pre and post-natal care) feeding, advertising, etc. can add up fast. Should the mother or babies develop serious problems you will need to spend even more money. People may tell you that they desperately want a puppy but disappear when it's time to actually buy or they assumed you would give them one. In an average 2 week-running ad you may expect about 4 phone calls, three of which are just people calling to ask questions. As a result you may have puppies in your home much longer than you originally intended and the costs keep mounting. If you're not a good financial planner and neglect to anticipate the $2,000.00 up-front investment then you will find that creeping costs play havoc with your budget and perhaps even put you in the hole. Are you able and willing to underwrite such costs without the guarantee that your puppies will sell?

6. Are you ready to select homes? After spending weeks with your puppies, you may find that when it's time to let go there will be an emotional price to pay. It's easy to get attached to these little critters. Interviewing new potential owners can be a less than delightful experience also. People need to be carefully screened and educated. Not everyone is suited to own a Bulldog. Interviewing and making wise choices for your babies can be stressful. There is nothing more devastating than to have someone you have chosen call to tell you that the puppy died when it was hit by a car. As a breeder you have the further obligation and sometimes legal responsibility of guaranteeing your pups. Many states have puppy "lemon laws". If you are not prepared for the costs of a lawsuit you might find yourself in jail. It is also possible, a few years down the road, to receive a phone call asking you to take the puppy (now adult dog) back. This type of phone call is preferable to hearing that the cute bundle you sold is now in the local pound and/or was put to sleep because the owner didn't want it any more. WAY too many of our dogs are ending up in rescue....ask yourself if you want to contribrute to this problem.

7. Are you prepared for the personality changes in your dogs? Breeding may bring about some personality changes in your dog. Some females become extremely protective of their pups and a neighborhood kid can be bitten as a result. Lawsuits are NOT FUN! (They are also not cheap.) Some bitches go through a post-partum depression after the puppies have been taken away. This may even get to the point of destructive behavior. Males can undergo personality changes after being bred. Whereas a male may have never lifted his leg in the house he may decide to begin this behavior after breeding. Weight gain can occur in both males and females after being bred and the sleek look that you once loved so much can suddenly disappear - sometimes never to be seen again.

8. How important is pedigree and structure? Pedigrees are an asset and can help you make decisions on how to breed. Making the right choices in breeding can be hard, even if that choice is not to breed. Temperament and health considerations are important but so is structure. Each breed has a standard of perfection and dogs should be bred for that standard. It is what makes a Bulldog a Bulldog. If not carefully bred, it is possible to end up with giant Bulldogs or midgets. Pedigrees alone cannot tell the whole story. A good mentor or knowledgeable person can tell you the history of your dog's ancestors. You need to find out about seizures, leg problems, temperament weaknesses, etc. This information cannot be found by merely glancing over a pedigree. Structure is extremely important. A basic understanding of genetics, a sense of responsibility, a commitment to the endeavor and a little luck are involved in breeding dogs of outstanding quality.

While this did not cover all the details of breeding, whelping and rearing a litter of puppies, it does give you some idea of the time, expense and emotional input that is needed.

Know the Facts BEFORE Breeding Your Bulldog
We think it is extremely important to learn the facts and possible consequences in advance if you are contemplating breeding your bulldog. In today's overcrowded world, we, the wardens of our domestic pets, must make responsible decisions for them and for ourselves. The following points should be reviewed carefully.

QUALITY: AKC registration is NOT an indication of quality. Most dogs, even purebred, should not be bred. Many dogs, though wonderful pets, have defects of structure, personality or health that should not be perpetuated. Breeding animals should be proven free of these defects BEFORE starting on a reproductive career. Breeding should only be done with the goal of IMPROVEMENT--an honest attempt to create puppies better than their parents. Ignorance is no excuse--once you have created a life, you can't take it back, even if blind, crippled or a canine psychopath!

COST: Dog breeding is NOT a money making proposition, if done correctly. Health care and shots, diagnosis of problems and proof of quality, extra food, facilities, stud fees, advertising, etc. are all costly and must be paid BEFORE the pups can be sold. An unexpected Cesarean or emergency intensive care for a sick pup will make a break even litter become a big liability. And this is IF you can sell the pups.

SALES: First-time breeders have no reputation and no referrals to help them find buyers. Previous promises of "I want a dog just like yours" evaporate. Consider the time and expense of caring for your pups that may not sell until they are four months old, eight months old or more! What WOULD you do if your pups did not sell? Send them to the pound? Dump them in the country? Sell them cheap to a dog broker who may resell them to labs or other unsavory buyers? Veteran breeders with good reputations often don't consider a breeding unless they have cash deposits in advance for an average sized litter.

JOY OF BIRTH: If you're doing it for the children's education, remember the whelping may be at 3 a.m. or at the vet's on the surgery table. Even if the kiddies are present, they may get a chance to see the birth of a monster or a mummy, or watch the bitch scream and bite you as you attempt to deliver a pup that is half out and too large. Some bitches are not natural mothers and will either ignore or savage their whelps. Bitches can have severe delivery problems or even die in whelp -- pups can be born dead or with gross deformities that require euthanasia. Of course there can be joy, but if you can't deal with the possibility of tragedy, don't start.

TIME: Veteran breeders of quality dogs state they spend well over 130 hours of labor in raising an average litter. That is over two hours per day, every day! The bitch CANNOT be left alone while whelping and only for short periods for the first few days after. Be prepared for days off work and sleepless nights. Even after delivery, mom needs care and feeding, puppies need daily checking, weighing and socialization. Later, grooming and training, and the whelping box needs lots of cleaning. More hours are spent doing paperwork, pedigrees and interviewing the buyers. If you have any abnormal conditions, such as sick puppies or a bitch who can't or won't care for her babes, count on double the time. If you can't provide the time, you will either have dead pups or poor ones that are bad tempered, antisocial, dirty and/or sickly -- hardly a buyers' delight.

HUMANE RESPONSIBILITIES: It's midnight -- do you know where your puppies are? There are THREE AND A HALF MILLION unwanted dogs put to death in pounds in this country each year, with millions more dying homeless and unwanted through starvation, disease, automobiles, abuse, etc. Nearly a quarter of the victims of this unspeakable tragedy are purebred dogs "with papers." The breeder who creates a life is responsible for that life. Will you carefully screen potential buyers? Or will you just take the money and not worry if the puppy is chained in a junkyard all of its life or runs in the street to be killed? Will you turn down a sale to irresponsible owners? Or will you say "yes" and not think about the puppy you held and loved now having a litter of mongrels every time she comes in heat, which fills the pounds with more statistics -- your grand-pups? Would you be prepared to take a grown puppy if the owners can no longer care for it? Or can you live with the thought that the baby you helped bring into the world will be destroyed at the pound?

Breeding and Whelping Bulldogs

This section is not a "how to" section on breeding and whelping, but rather a look at what is involved, what occurs and what to expect in breeding and whelping. You should only breed after substantial research, and using only animals of sound structure, good health, and complimentary/desireable pedigrees that have been well-proven.

WHEN TO BREED: The best advice seems to be not breeding your dogs before 18 months of age. Both the bitch and the sire should have been examined by a veterinarian to be certain they are free and clear of hip dysplasia, cataracts, cherry eye, palate problems, heart conditions and other congenital diseases. You should have also studied the pedigree, and spent a lot of time assuring that you have a good breeding pair that will compliment each other and produce a better quality puppy. Under no condition should you do any harm to the breed through faulty breeding and lack of experience on your part. If you are not sure, then you should not be breeding bulldog's. The Bulldog is, at best, difficult to breed. Bitches can come into there first heat cycle from 5 to 11 months of age, on average it is more in the 6-9 month range. They should not be breed before there 3rd heat or 18 months. Heat cycles usually last about 3 weeks start to finish. You may noitce lite red/brown spots at first and then some bitches will bleed a great deal after the first week. Best breeding time is usally 8-12 days, but again can be from 5 to 18 days into the cycle so it's important to do Progesterone Testing to be safe and sure.

ARTIFICAL INSEMINATION: Breeding by means of A.I. is usually successful, (and almost always required). The technique for artifical insemination requires the depositing of semen (taken directly from the dog) into the bitch's vagina, past the cervix and into the uterus by syringe. The correct temperature of the semen is vital, and there is no guarantee. Methods include fresh semen, cooled extended and frozen semen.

So the time has come for your bulldog to be bred. Your bitch is sound, her temperment is excellent and she is worthy of the breed. Your thoughts should also have been given to the correct selection of a proper stud. A mating should take place after careful consideration of bloodlines, health, age and how many previous litters. Count 60-63 days before the puppies are likely to be born making sure everything necessary for their arrival will be in order by that time. Note; semen can hold in the bitch for up to 3 days, so be careful not to expect them too early. Example: If she has passed 63 days and you have no puppies she may have not "taken" the day you thought she did. It could be a few more days.

LABOR: A normal gestation is about 63 days. A week before the puppies are due, alert your veterinarian and start observing the bitch for signs of labor. She will generally stop eating 24 hours before whelping. As much as a week before, she will begin "nesting". The bitch should be given a whelping box with layers of newspaper (black and white only) to make her nest. She will dig more and more as birth approaches. Tempatures can also be taken often but are not always reliable. Don't be lead into a false security with that alone. Even with a c-section planned it is a good thing to let her nest!

ARRIVAL OF THE PUPPIES: A sudden gush of green fluid from the bitch indicates the water surrounding the pups has "broken". When the water breaks, birth of the first puppy is imminent. The first puppies are usually born within minutes to half an hour of each other, but a couple of hours is not uncommon. If you notice the bitch straining constantly without producing a puppy, it is cause for concern.

CAESAREAN SECTION: You should have a planned C-Section set up with your vet well in advance of delivery. It may be best to allow the bitch to start or get real close to starting labor before doing this to avoid a C-Section too early which can have dangerous complications. This will also depend on your vet and how close his office is to you as well as if he is able to do a 3 am C-Section. If you do a C-Section just because the Bulldog has reached her 62-63 day, the puppies could still be a few days early as semen can live in the bitch for up to 3 days before it takes sometimes. If the bitch should go on into labor on her own even if she is planned for a C-Section, get her to the vet right away. Her cervix may fail to dilate or there may be torsion of the uterus. A dead puppy, water puppy or a sideways puppy could be blocking the cervix. No matter what the cause, get the bitch to the vet immediately.
Tests can also be done to get a date for c section in advance and during a safe and normal hour so chances of problems will be reduced.

After the surgery, when the bitch is home in her whelping box, she may nurse the pups under your supervision. Bulldogs are commonly C-sectioned (about 95%) due to their size (head and shoulders), exhaustion, failure to progress in labor, over heating and other reasons. Plan on visiting with your vet about when you will likely do a C-section well in advance of delivery! PUPPIES should be allowed to nurse on mom the first couple of days at all cost, this is very important in there development unless the bitch is running a fever. Milk will usually come down within 2 days of birth, real true milk.

REMEMBER THIS: Free whelping Bulldogs is starting to be more common than it used to be, however free whelping is a very tricky situation even for those with a great deal of experience in doing it. Never should you attempt a free whelp without a great deal of experience, a good vet, the ability to understand when a problem may be starting, and a backup plan to aid you if needed. Be safe, not sorry! Danger...Danger...Danger!

C-sections for Bulldogs are very common. The reasons for c-section are discussed later on this page. In recent years, more Bullies are free-whelping and it is improving the breed (anything that could be done without surgery is a major improvement). However c-sections are still common and done far more than free-whelps, like 95% of the tine. You should plan on a c-section for your bitch unless she has been cleared by a vet for free-whelping, then plan on letting her deliver at the vet clinic. This is one reason breeding Bulldogs should be left to those with a great deal of experience. (EXTREME CAUTION MUST BE TAKEN WHEN A BULLLDOG IS FREE-WHELPING, EVEN UNDER PERFECT CONDITIONS). C-section of a Bulldog is the most prefered way and the safest! Do NOT attempt a free whelp.

BREED THE BEST TO THE BEST: Only healthy, well adjusted females that have been in season at least twice, are at least 18 months old, and are descended from dogs free of major defects should be considered for breeding. The bitch descended from the rare free-whelp mother (i.e., one who can deliver puppies on her own) is an especially prime candidate for breeding.

The best advise is not to breed unless you have plans that will include the proper long term commitment to the breed, the health and safety of the bitch and puppies, and the ability to completely understand the Bulldog and its needs. There are too many backyard breeders trying to jump in and breed dogs with almost no experience or understanding of this unique breed. They see the prices they sell for and try to get in and fill their pockets with money. The sad part about that is the end result is not good for the Bulldog.

This is not a breed that you just put two dogs together and forget, let the mother deliver and forget, let the mother raise solely the litter and forget. In the mean time the breed suffers. It can take many years for responsible breeders to correct the damage done by a few backyard breeders. If you really want to breed Bulldogs, take some time to understand the breed, do research, attend shows, talk with breeders, judges, and those who have spent years with this breed. Once you have decided you still want to breed, get help. Find someone who has a great deal of experience to mentor you, teach you, and give you the advise you need. You should own Bulldogs for many years before breeding them in the best conditions.

You must also compliment the breed by breeding to improve it. Find the proper mating pair. Breeding out faults and improving the breed is what it's about. You will not make any money from breeding Bulldogs if you do it the right and the only way it should be done. You do it for the love of the breed and to try to improve it. And the first rule is first of all do no harm. Breeding Bulldogs is very difficult at best, very expensive, and time consuming. It is a 24 hour a day commitment. Once you have decided this is still what you want and you have done all this the right way, then decide why you are breeding. You will be improving the breed through what method? What is your plan? This is a loving breed that needs the respect and care of those willing to provide it for years to come.

There is no shortage of good pets in this country and the animal shelters are full of pets needing good homes. Many dogs who come from puppymills, backyard breeders, and farm operations have health problems that will be passed on to their future litters by breeding them. Most of these people will not do any pedigree research as well. Over 75% of the reasons a Bulldog ends up in a rescue or animal shelter is health related problems which were likely genetic. Good breeders look to compliment the breed through careful breeding and improvement.
A final note: There are many cases where a Bulldog and the litter have died from, during, or after a delivery, or during pregnancy from some sort of complication. We hear those stories way too often. Please be cautious and understand fully what risk may be involved. You must be aware of your dates as there have been several cases where puppies was taken to early and the litter dies since the lungs is the last thing to mature.

Pregnancy, False Pregnancy, Estrus (Heat Cycle)

The best days to palpate (feel for) puppies are about day 28 to day 35 of the pregnancy. Usually it is best to count from the last breeding day as most dogs actually ovulate shortly before they quit standing for the male.
X-rays can confirm pregnancy after 45 days. Sometimes it is worthwhile to take X-rays to get an idea of the number of puppies -- usually done if your vet suspects that there are problems or if the bitch has had trouble delivering puppies previously, or for C-section reasons.

It is best to gradually change the bitch to a puppy formula dog food at about the 35th day of the pregnancy (take about a week to slowly make the change, mixing in small amounts of puppy food with normal food the first day and gradually increasing the amount). Most bitches require about 1.5 times the normal amount of food for their maintenance at the time of birth. As the puppies grow, she may require as much as 3 times normal amounts of food to support lactation. You should continue to keep her on a puppy formula until the puppies are weaned. Do not supplement calcium during the pregnancy. This seems to lead to problems with uterine inertia. It may also contribute to the frequency of seizure problems associated with low blood calcium levels during lactation (milk tetany).

Know your veterinarian's emergency procedures before the delivery. If your vet refers emergencies to an emergency clinic, make sure you know where it is and how to call if you need help. If your veterinary hospital staff covers its own emergencies it is still important to know the procedure for contacting someone before the need arises. Ask about this. Write the phone numbers down where you can easily find them. Providing a safe environment for the puppies is important. More puppies die from hypothermia than anything else. Making arrangements to ensure the puppies will stay warm is important. The puppy heating pads are nice and sometimes other arrangements can be made to safely supply a warm spot for the puppies without making it too hot for the mother. Breeders are a good source of information in most cases and it would be a good idea to continue to try to talk to yours. They often have practical information that vets don't have experience with.

Pregnancy - False

False pregnancy symptoms are normal in dogs that have an estrus and do not get bred, due to the way in which they cycle. It is not usually necessary to treat for symptoms of false pregnancy but they can be so close to those of a real pregnancy that the two can be very confusing. It is usually possible to feel distinct lumps in the uterus representing individual embryos from about the 28th day of pregnancy to about the 35th day of pregnancy. Before and after that it can be hard to identify a pregnant uterus easily. After 45 days or so when the skeletons begin to calcify it is often possible to feel the distinct hardness of a puppy skull when palpating the abdomen or to identify the puppies on an X-ray, if you wish to take her to the vet's office prior to the home visit, or if your vet has a portable X-ray machine. By now, if your dog is NOT pregnant, your vet will probably be able to tell you that, since she should be pretty far into the pregnancy and at least uterine enlargement should be palpable.

Estrus or Heat cycle

The average heat cycle for a dog is approximately 3 weeks and since this an an average, some heats are shorter (as little as 7-10 days), others are longer (4 weeks or more). Average times between heat periods is seven months but some dogs can cycle as early as every 4 months, some once a year. Lengths of heat cycles and intervals between cycles are different for each dog but most dogs hit somewhere close to the averages.

The first part of heat you will notice bleeding from the vulva, swelling of the vulva, possible increase in urination and the most noticeable, male dogs hanging around the house. During this period (proestrus), females will not allow the males to breed with them although the males will be very persistent. The second part or estrus is the time in which the female will allow the male to breed her and this can last anywhere from 4-10 days. A female, most of the time, will allow most any male to breed during this time. As the female starts to go out of heat or enter diestrus, she will be less willing to breed. Again this stage can last 4-11 days but averages approximately 7 days. The next cycle usually begins about 7 months from the start of the last heat cycle, not the end of that cycle but again this varies from dog to dog. The interval stays the same even if she becomes pregnant.

If you do not intend to breed your bitch, you really should consider spaying her. There are many health benefits associated with spaying such as decreased chance of mammary tumors and you will not have to worry about pyometra, metritis or unwanted litters (overpopulation is a big problem - just take a trip to a humane shelter). If you elect to spay her, this should not be done during her heat cycle because of the risk of excessive bleeding and other complications. The best idea is to wait until she has been out of heat for a few weeks.

How long have you been in the breed? What others have you bred?
You probably want to avoid anyone who has "switched" breeds every couple of years, from popular breed to popular breed. Otherwise, look for someone with some experience with the breed you are interested in. If they are new to your breed, do they have experience with a similar breed?
Also, be very wary of people who have multiple dog breeds. It is not uncommon to find people breeding more than one kind of dog (for example, quite a few Akita breeders are also interested in Shibas), but a breeder producing litters of many different breeds of dog is not going to be your best source, and probably should be suspected as a puppy-mill or disreputable breeder.

What kind of congenital defects are present in this breed? What steps are you taking to decrease these defects?
Avoid anyone who says "none," or "not in my dogs!". There are genetic problems that are present in almost every breed. Do some research here, and make sure you know what kind of answer you should be getting from the breeder.
A reputable breeder should be able to tell you what kinds of problems might be present in the particular breed (for example, hip dysplasia, entropian, thyroid problems, etc) and what kind of testing is available to find it. It goes without saying that the breeder should be doing those tests on all their breeding stock. Any dogs that are showing signs of any of these problems should not be bred -- avoid anyone who is breeding dogs with genetic problems, or who is not testing their dogs and bitches.

I can't stress enough that you need to have a good idea of what the correct answers are here. Get any good dog book, call the breed club, find out what to expect before you fall in love with that cute puppy face! A breeder that can't tell you what kinds of things affect their dogs isn't going to be breeding to avoid them.

Do you have the parents on site? Can I see them?
This is kind of a trick question - most breeders will not own both dogs. They will own the mother (and you should be able to see her), but the best match for that bitch probably belongs to someone else. So, if you can see both parents on site, you should be a little suspicious. It may mean that the breeder has a large pool of dogs and is carefully matching them - or it can mean that they had two attractive dogs in their backyard and had either a planned or unplanned breeding just because they had a male and female at the same time.
You should be able to see the mother and any other dogs on site when you visit. If the breeder hesitates, you should wonder why - are the dogs kept in clean, healthy conditions? are they too aggressive to let loose? You should be very comfortable with any reason not to see the dogs.

However, remember that you should not be interacting with very young puppies, and might be prevented from seeing puppies that are less than 4 weeks old. This is ok, and is simply the breeder trying to eliminate any chance of illness in the puppies - they don't know what kind of dog diseases you may be carrying, and don't want the litter to get sick.

What are the good and bad points of the parents? What titles to they have?
Usually, breeders will start to gush at this point and enumerate all the wonderful qualities of their dogs - and the best I've talked to also will point out their flaws. What you're looking for here is temperament, possible aggression, how they deal with people, how they're not "perfect".
As for titles, reputable breeders show their dogs, and they should be carrying points towards a championship, if not champions already. This is important - while there are many wonderful dogs out there that haven't seen the inside of a show ring, if the breeder is truly trying to improve the breed, they will be comparing their dogs to other breeders and trying to breed dogs that match the standard. The only way to do that is to show their dogs.

Many breeders compete in obedience as well, and will have Companion Dog (CD) or other obedience titles for the parents. Often, this is a good benchmark for temperament and behavior.

Can you explain the puppy's pedigree?
A good breeder should be able to tell you something about dogs on your puppy's pedigree. Have them explain the often cryptic letters and titles awarded, and get a good feel that they know the lines they are breeding from. At the very least, they should be able to provide you with a 4 generation pedigree and be able to tell you about the dogs.
You might see the same dogs listed a few times on the pedigree - the breeder should be able to point out any linebreeding and inbreeding and explain the benefits and dangers of both.

Where were the puppies raised? How have you socialized them?
What you're looking for here is an indication of what kind of socialization the puppies have had. Ideally, you want the breeder to have raised the puppies in the house, around the normal daily activities of a household so they are used to the noises and activity of humans.
Someone who says "in the garage" or "in the kennels" can also have well socialized puppies, but you need to be more careful. Have they spent enough time with the puppies?

Socialization is so important to getting a well-adjusted, well-mannered dog. Puppies should have been exposed to people, other dogs, new situations, normal household sounds and activities in order to learn. A puppy raised without this important social interaction can be shy, fearful, aggressive, or have other problems as they get older. Dogs need to know how to play, how to handle new situations, how to relate to people.

How many litters do you have a year?
Breeders producing more than 1 or 2 litters a year are probably not paying enough attention to the genetics and health of the puppies. If it is a small breeder, even two a year may be too much to be able to make sure that the breeding is going to be successful and produce healthy puppies.
Definitely avoid anyone who "always has puppies", or who is breeding their bitch every year. I have talked to several people with more than one litter at a time - I avoid them as well. If someone has three litters (especially if they note that it was "unexpected") on the ground at the same time, they are certainly not planning these puppies! All puppies should be "expected" and well planned. If they're not, it's a crap shoot as to whether you're going to get a good puppy or a nightmare.

What guarantees do you have for this puppy?
At the very least, the breeder should guarantee the puppy against any debilitating genetic problems, and insure that the puppy is in good health.
A breeder should be prepared to take any dog back for any reason - part of being an ethical breeder is making sure that the puppies have a good home and that it stays that way.

When can I take the puppy home?
Puppies usually go home between 8 and 12 weeks. Avoid anyone sending tiny puppies home.

The "breeder" lacks knowledge about the breed
The "breeder" shows ignorance or denial of genetic defects in the breed
The "breeder" has no involvement in dog sports
The "breeder" doesn't let you observe the puppies or adults, or let you see the kennels
The "breeder" has no documentation and cannot provide a pedigree
The puppies are not socialized

How to read those ads!
Here are a few more things that you ought to look out for.
"Champion lines" -- look instead for Champion sired or Champion parents. All Champion Lines means is that there is a dog somewhere in your puppy's family that was a champion - it says nothing about the quality of the parents at all. Anyone can buy a puppy from a champion, but it does not mean that they have any other interest in the breed but to bank on the name and make money. The puppy may have been sold as a pet (since it had some problems that prevented it from being shown) and an unethical person did not have the dog desexed and is still breeding puppies.

"AKC Registration" or "AKC Papers" -- So what? AKC registration does not guarantee quality. AKC papers are much like the title of a car - papers are issued on the junked chevy on blocks in your yard just as easily as they are on a brand new, shiny Jaguar. AKC does not control breeding, approve litters, or guarantee soundness. Unfortunately, in the hands of some unethical breeders, it doesn't even guarantee that the dog is purebred.

AKC Registration is automatic if you buy from a reputable breeder - they will provide all necessary paperwork when you buy a puppy. It is not a selling point, and shouldn't be treated as one.

Be wary of other "registrations", as well. There are several groups that are registering dogs, occassionally even mixed breeds, for a fee. This registration means nothing, and is of no value to you.

"extra-big", "extra-small" -- breeders trying for extremes are rarely raising healthy dogs, and any ad that has to stress the size and weight of the dog to sell the puppies is suspect, in my opinion. Usually, these dogs are outside of the breed standard and are subject to their own medical problems due to excessive size or lack of it.

"rare" -- Why? Is the dog showable? Are there too many defects for the animal to be bred? What kind of problems does this "rare" color or size or pattern entail? There are many people buying "rare" white Boxers and Shepherds, not realizing that they are not show-prospects, and that they are buying a dog with medical problems from lack of pigmentation, and possible behavioral problems as well.

There are even some people selling unusual cross breeds as "rare" dogs, and people buy them thinking they are getting some unique treasure.

"see both parents" As noted in questions to ask a breeder , this is not usually a good thing. Rarely will a good breeder have the luck to own both dogs for the perfect litter. If you can see both parents, it usually means that the person had two dogs in the back yard and didn't supervise them carefully enough, resulting in puppies.

"Must go now!" Why? Are they too big to be cute anymore? Need more money? Is there a problem? Be very wary of this one.

What Do Breeders Want to Know?

A good breeder is trying to find the best homes for the puppies, and may ask some occassionally strange questions regarding your home life and situation before letting you have one of their precious puppies.
They want to know that you know what you're doing, that you can train and take care of the puppy, that you are going to be a responsible, intelligent owner. They are the experts here - and they will evaluate you as carefully as you evaluate them.

Expect this. If it bothers you, you probably shouldn't have a dog.

What is your living arrangment?
Some dogs make lousy apartment dwellers, others can live happily in a small studio the size of an elevator. Other dogs need lots of exercise and someplace to run, necessitating a fenced yard. Is the puppy going to be left alone for long periods? These are all things that the breeder has to evaluate before deciding to sell you a puppy.
Many large-breed breeders require that you have a fenced yard - my current contract requires a six-foot fence for the puppy I just got. This is not unreasonable for large dogs who can either jump fences or need lots of exercise and cannot be tied up.

A note on tying your dog - many, many breeders will not sell you a puppy if your method of restraining the dog is to tie it in your yard on a chain or rope. If this is the method you intend to use, you might want to rethink your choice to get a dog... dogs should not be tied or staked out all the time.

Breeders will want to know if you intend this to be an "outside" dog, and many will not consider selling to you if you are. If you want a dog, why on earth would you get a dog if you never intend to let it in the house? Dogs are pack animals and need human interaction to be happy.

Have you had dogs before? What happened to them?
Don't expect a breeder to sell a puppy to you if your last two dogs were hit by cars or you gave the up to the pound for behavior problems. A breeder is looking for your level of experience with dogs, and whether you are a responsible pet owner.

Also, if you have dogs already in your household, the breeder is making sure you understand the dynamics of a multi-dog household and are prepared to add another dog to your family.

What is your experience with this breed? What are your expectations?
Each breed has it's quirks, and the breeder is trying to determine if you have any idea what you're getting in to. Too many people pick the "popular" breed, not knowing that Dalmations need tons of exercise and deafness is common, or that Border Collies will herd anything, including their family, or that the fuzzy Newfoundland puppy will be huge and will drool.
In asking what your expectations are, the breeder can get a good feel for whether you and the dog you choose are going to be compatible. Looking for a dog to play frisbee with? A toy breed might not be for you. Want a dog that doesn't bark much? Terriers may be too noisy for you. Hate brushing your dog? The breeder can tell you the grooming requirements. For example, an energetic, active breed will not be a good dog for a family that is sedentary, nor will a couch-potato breed fit in with a family that hikes, camps, and kayaks. They are trying to prevent you from getting a dog that you cannot live with.

Again, the breeder is trying to see if you are a good fit for the particular characteristics of the breed.

Do you have children?
Some breeds are fabulous with children, others horrid. That's a pretty blanket statement, but the breeder can help you determine if the puppy you have chosen will fit in with the children that you have.
If you have very young children, breeders may dissuade you from some breeds until the kids are older and more able to handle the puppy properly. That applies to both very large, pushy breeds that can dominate a child, to tiny toy breeds that can be harmed by too rough play with toddlers.

A lot of people who have children at home decide to get a dog so Johnny can have a pet and learn responsibility (or whatever). Remember that no matter how responsible your child is, you will probably end up taking care of this dog, and the breeder is trying to make sure that things work out.

Do you intend to breed/show/train?
If you are not intending to show this dog, you will probably be sold a puppy on the condition that you spay or neuter it. If you are going to show, the breeder is a fabulous source of information and can get you pointed in the right direction.
The breeder will also assess your ability to train and control the dog, and your commitment to do so.